ORIGIN:

A descendant of the wild guinea pigs of the Andes Mountains region South America, today's domesticated guinea pig is viewed by many as an "easy" pet for children. Guinea pigs are hystricomorphic rodents (related to chinchillas and porcupines) and in their natural habitat, guinea pigs live in open, grassy areas. They seek shelter in naturally protected areas or burrows deserted by other animals. They were probably first domesticated by the Indians of Peru, who used them for food and as sacrificial offerings to their gods. In the 16th century Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe, and selective breeding and captive rearing began.

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NATURE:

Guinea pigs are very popular pets because of their availability, docile temperaments, tendency not to bite or scratch when handled, and relatively clean habits and many parents select a guinea pig as a first pet for their child, believing a small pet needs only a small amount of care. It is important to understand that these little guys have lots of requirements, including a roomy cage, specialized diet, daily cleanup, and gentle handling, and that an adult should be the primary caretaker.

They are not long-lived, which can be disconcerting to owners some parents, however, believe that having their children experience the relatively short period of companionship and subsequent death is a meaningful way to expose children to the "ups and downs" of life.

Guinea pigs are sociable animals and tend to live in groups they are happiest when with other guinea pigs, so many pet care books urge owners to keep two or more together. Choose pairs that are the same sex and compatible. They are strictly herbivorous (plant-eating) and do most of their foraging for grasses, roots, fruits and seeds in the late afternoon and early evening.

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HOUSING:

They may be small, but guinea pigs require ample space to move about. Make sure their living quarters are at least 18 inches wide, 14 inches high, and 25 inches deep - one reference recommends at least 100 square inches of floor area per adult.

Guinea pigs housed in larger cages are more likely to be active. It is not recommended to use aquariums, as they provide poor ventilation, and mesh or wire-floor cages hurt guinea pigs' tender feet. The construction and design of the enclosure must prevent escape. The enclosure also must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards.

The enclosure can be open at the top, provided that its sides are at least 7-8 inches high. Male guinea pigs (especially breeding males) require enclosures with sides at least 10 inches high. Males tend to be more rambunctious.

Enclosures that provide solid flooring and an adequate supply of a preferred bedding are best for pet guinea pigs. They should be easy to clean, well lighted, and adequately ventilated. Bedding must be clean, non-toxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace. Shredded paper, wood shavings, and processed corncob are preferred bedding materials. Sawdust should be avoided because it tends to collect within the external genitalia of males, forming an impaction. Cedar shavings should also be avoided because the pleasant smelling odour they impart to the cage is actually toxic to the animal.

Guinea pigs seem most comfortable when they are spared exposure to excessive noise, needless excitement and other stresses. Sudden movement should also be prevented. The cage should include a hiding place such as an upside down cardboard box (many different options can also be bought) the important thing is that your guinea pigs have a hiding place to retreat to when unsettled.

Guinea pigs have 2 types of reactions when startled by a loud noise or sudden movement or when placed in a strange environment. They may "freeze" completely motionless (for up to 20 minutes), or they may panic. Panic involves erratic running and leaping, often accompanied by shrill squealing. Groups of guinea pigs may stampede in a circle, often trampling the younger residents within the enclosure.

Desirable environmental temperature range: 65-75 F
Desirable relative humidity range: 40-70% (50% is considered ideal)

Provide plenty of high-quality hay, use for nesting and snacking but do not use materials such as sawdust, cedar chips, or fabrics that may cause respiratory or other health problems. Finally, provide your guinea pig with a gnawing log (such as an untreated fruit tree branch), tunnels to crawl through, and platforms to climb on. Add a heavy food bowl resistant to tipping and gnawing and a water bottle with a sipper tube.

Also, because their cage lining doubles as bedding and toilet, guinea pigs require daily housekeeping assistance. Scrub and disinfect the cage, then let it dry before lining the floor with fresh bedding and replacing the cage furnishings. Also clean the water bottle and sipper tube daily to prevent build-up of food, algae, and bacteria.

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FEEDING:

Food
Feed your guinea pig a commercial guinea pig food, formulated especially for the species. Guinea pig require a lot of vitamin C as well as folic acid unlike rabbits so do not feed rabbit food to guinea pigs as it will not provide the nutrition necessary.

Commercially available pelleted chows provide all of the essential nutrients, as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. Even when the fresh pellets are properly stored in a cool, dry place, about half of the vitamin C content is degraded and lost within 6 weeks of manufacture.

To top up the vitamin requirement provide veggies such as kale and cabbage or one-quarter of an orange daily and ask your veterinarian about vitamin supplements. Treat guinea pigs to fruits, including melon slices and apples (but remove the seeds, which are toxic).

All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist tipping over. The sides of the crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food, or the crocks should be elevated slightly above the bedding.

Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit and do not tolerate changes in the presentation, taste, odour, texture or form of their food and water. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the food and water containers. Any changes in the food itself should be made gradually. Failure to do so usually results in the guinea pigs' refusing food and water, which can lead to disease.

Water
Good-quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. The diet can be supplemented with vitamin C. Recommended is 200 milligrams of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to be added to about 1 qt of drinking water, made up fresh every 12 hours.

Water is most easily made available and kept free from contamination by providing it in one or more water bottles equipped with "sipper" tubes. Guinea pigs tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles more than other pet rodents by chewing on the end of the sipper tube and "backwashing" food particles into it. For this reason, all food and water containers should be cleaned and disinfected daily.

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HANDLING:

Guinea pigs are easily stressed and require careful handling. To pick up a guinea pig, slowly place one hand under her chest just behind the front legs, and gently cup your other hand under her hindquarters. Once you have a firm but gentle grip - lift. Then immediately pull her close to your chest or lap so she feels safe. Guinea pigs rarely violently struggle when they are being picked up but often make a “squeal of protest,” which sounds pig-like to many people. Nevertheless, great care should be taken not to injure them when picking them up. One of the most desirable features of guinea pigs as pets is that they rarely bite when being handled or restrained. One reference indicates that only 1 in 400 will bite under these circumstances.

Guinea pigs try their best to keep clean, carefully grooming themselves with their front teeth, tongue, and back claws. But particularly the longhaired breeds require frequent brushing and combing to stay clean and tangle-free.

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TRAINING:

Guinea Pigs can be trained to perform easy tricks, but only when food is involved and with many repetitions.

It is also possible to “toilet train” your Guinea Pig - always remember when you try to litter-box train your guinea pig, that the guinea pig is praise and it’s shy by nature. Never push your guinea pig to use the litter box because this will only frighten it.

Most guinea pig owners use wooden/or paper pellets for their guinea pig’s litter box but you can use the usual bedding used for whole cage.

Start the litter-box training process in a very small area in the guinea pig’s cage. Place a small litter box in a corner of your guinea pig’s cage, try to place the box in corner of the cage that your guinea pig preferred to use as a bathroom. Put some fecal pellets inside the box to help your guinea pigs get the idea. You may also put a pinch of hay to a corner of the box to encourage your guinea pig to use it.

When you see your guinea pig do its business in the litter box, give its favourite treat as a reward. Don’t be frustrated if you see that your guinea pig sits in the box, eats the hay you’ve placed in it, and do nothing that you expected from it, because guinea pigs often eats and defecates in the same time. Eating the hay will stimulate your guinea pig’s digestive system and finally may cause it to use the litter-box as a bathroom.

Once your guinea pig seems to be using the litter box in his cage and has done so for more time, you can try giving your cavy a little more space. Try to put its litter box on the floor when it is time for floor exercise. If your guinea pig starts making mistakes on the floor, then it may have been too soon to place it in a bigger area. Place the litter box back into your guinea pig’s cage and start all over.

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HEALTH:

For many years guinea pigs have been used in biomedical research laboratories. Consequently, their medical problems have been traditionally approached on a group basis, rather than on an individual basis. As a result, very little practical information exists on the medical care and treatment of individual pet guinea pigs. Even less information is available to owners on the responsible home care of guinea pigs and recognition of their medical problems.

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VITAL STATISTICS:

Scientific name: Cavia porcellus
Life span: 3-4 years (Potential life span 6-7 years)
Recommended age at 1st breeding: male: 3-4 months; female: <3-7 months (not after 7 months)
Gestation (pregnancy): averages 63-68 days
Average litter size: 3-4 young (range, 1-6)
Age at weaning: 3 weeks

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ORIGIN:

Hamsters were living in relative obscurity until just 70 years ago, when a zoologist discovered a family of these rodents - in the Syrian desert and called them "Cricetus auratus," the Golden Hamster. Since hamsters originating from the Middle East and southeastern Europe has been introduced. Hamsters are small, virtually tailless, velvet-furred rodents with enormous cheek pouches. The most common and popular is the golden or Syrian hamster. Colour and hair-type varieties of the golden hamster include cinnamon, cream, white, and "teddy bear" (the long-haired variety). Most of the hamsters sold as pets or used in research are the descendants of 3 littermates domesticated in 1930.

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NATURE:

Russian or dwarf hamsters and Chinese both like the company of their own kind, so keep a pair of the same sex and do not mix species.

Syrian hamsters or golden hamsters are solitary creatures and must not be housed together because of their inevitable aggressiveness toward each other.

Hamsters are very popular pets today because of their availability, affordability, small size, cuddly appearance, often docile temperament and relatively clean habits. They are not very long-lived, which can be disconcerting to owners (especially children) but some parents feel that having their children experience the relatively short period of companionship and subsequent death is a meaningful way to expose children to the "ups and downs" of life.

Hamsters are primarily nocturnal, though they may exhibit relatively short periods of activity throughout the day. During their active period, hamsters eat and exercise. As with all pets children need to be supervised when handling hamsters and an adult needs to be responsible for making sure the hamster is properly cared for. Because of their nocturnal nature hamsters may not be the ideal pet for children, as hamsters do not appreciate being disturbed when asleep and may become alarmed and as a result bite.

The cheek pouches are a relatively unique anatomic feature of hamsters. They are actually a cavernous out-pouching of the oral (mouth) cavity on both sides, extending alongside the head and neck to the shoulders. These pouches are used to store food and allow the hamster to transport food from where it is gathered to the hamster's den or nest. The food is then eaten later, at the hamster's leisure. Hamster owners not familiar with these cheek pouches often panic when seeing them fully distended for the first time, thinking they represent tumours or abscesses.

Another relatively unique anatomic feature of hamsters is the paired glands in the skin over the flanks. These appear as dark spots within the hair coat and are much more obvious in males than females. These glands are used to mark a hamster's territory and also have a role in sexual behaviour.

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HOUSING:

Syrian Hamsters should ideally be housed in a large wire cage with a plastic base no smaller than 60cm x 30cm floor space, by 30cm tall.

Russian and Chinese hamster can squeeze through small places so are best kept in a tank or aquarium no smaller than 60cm x 30cm floor space, by 30cm tall. The tank needs a securely fitted wire lid to allow ventilation and prevent escapes.

The cage should be kept away from draught, sunlight and direct heat. Line the bottom of the tank with plain white paper, and add dry timothy hay or shredded white paper for burrowing and nest building. Avoid using cedar shavings, which can cause respiratory problems. Dust-extracted shavings make good bedding for all types of hamsters, although some people prefer to use sawdust for long-coated types to prevent shavings getting tangled in their hair.

Even hamsters housed in quiet rooms still need hiding places within their tanks to feel secure in their surroundings. Empty tissue boxes and round oatmeal containers can perform double duty as both gnawing toys and hiding places. Notorious nibblers, hamsters may harm their internal systems if they ingest soft plastics, but some hamster owners provide PVC piping or hard plastic items that withstand chewing.

Hamsters seem to especially enjoy exercise wheels and other activities. The plastic enclosures equipped with horizontal and vertical tube-tunnels mentioned above are highly recommended for this reason. Hamsters seem to really enjoy running through them. They also enjoy tin cans opened at both ends and boxes with multiple openings through which they can crawl.

The frequency of cleaning depends on design of housing and materials of housing as well of cause on amount of hamsters in the cage. As a general rule of thumb, the enclosure and all cage "furniture" should be cleaned and disinfected at least once a week. The bathroom space however should be cleaned and disinfected daily as should food and water. Also clean the water bottle and sipper tube daily to prevent build-up of food, algae, and bacteria; check to be sure it is working properly as well.

Desirable environmental temperature range: 65-75 F
Desirable relative humidity range: 30-70%

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FEEDING:

Hamsters have high metabolisms and should have constant access to food and water. Some hamsters like to sit in their food dishes, so use a heavy ceramic dish to decrease the likelihood of food spillage. Respect the hamster's need for order by placing the dish a good distance from the bathroom and sleeping areas.

Food
Hamsters enjoy a varied diet that includes commercial grain and seed mixtures tailored for the animal as well as certain kinds of fruits and vegetables. A good commercial hamster mix should have all the necessary nutrients.

The diet should be supplemented with vegetables and fruit such as: dandelion greens, chickweed, alfalfa pellets, spinach, lettuce, carrots, slice of apple and a floret of cauliflower and other fruits. Stay away from raw beans, apple seeds, sprouting potato buds, parsley, and green parts of tomatoes—all foods that can be poisonous to hamsters.

Food should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist tipping. The sides of the crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal material out of the food, or the crocks should be elevated slightly above the bedding,

A hamster’s front teeth, like those of other rodents, grow continually, so they need to gnaw to keep them in shape. Dog biscuits make both good hamster treats and teeth trimmers.

Hamsters storing food in their cheek pouches can occasionally lead to problems. Therefore only feed very small peaces especially of fruit at one time as fruit stored can rot quickly.

Water
Fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. Water is most easily made available and kept free from contamination by providing it in one or more water bottles equipped with 'sipper' tubes. Make certain the ends of the tubes are positioned low enough to allow all residents within the enclosure (especially juvenile hamsters over 1 week old) easy access to them. Also make certain that very young hamsters are strong enough to obtain water from these sipper tubes.

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HANDLING:

In their native habitat, hamsters have to travel great distances to find food, a fact that explains domestic hamsters’ need for lots of exercise. Exercise wheels can provide hamsters with a good bit of activity, but they should not be the only source of physical activity.

Complement the hamster’s home gym and entertainment centre with chewable such as a dog biscuit or pesticide-free twigs from beech trees, maples, willows, hazelnut bushes, or fruit trees; these will also help keep the animal’s incisors worn down. Cardboard boxes, toilet-paper rolls, and paper-towel rolls are also safe for hamsters to burrow in, chew on, and play with. Wooden ladders and branches fastened securely to the inside of the tank can help hamsters show off their climbing agility.

Because of the risk of injury, many experts now advise against using hamster wheels with spokes. Solid, wide wheels are safer. Hamster exercise balls should be used with great care and only for a very limited amount of time (max 40 min) as hamsters can quickly become exhausted with no means of escape.

Hamsters handled frequently from a very young age usually remain docile and rarely bite. Those with docile temperaments and a history of not biting can simply be picked up by using one or both hands, and then held in both hands or in one hand held against the body.

Many hamsters develop untrustworthy personalities and begin to bite because they have been handled roughly or suddenly disturbed or awakened. Hamsters whose personalities are not well known must always be approached cautiously. A glove or small towel can be used to pick up these hamsters, or the animals can be encouraged to crawl into a small container, which is then removed from their enclosure. Unknown hamsters and those known to bite can also be picked up and restrained by grasping a large amount of skin behind the head. As much skin as possible should be grasped between the thumb and index and middle fingers because their skin is so very loose. In fact, hamsters can literally turn nearly all the way around within their skins and bite a handler if this caution is not heeded!

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TRAINING:

Hamsters can be litter trained, which helps keep their cage cleaner.

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HEALTH:

For many years hamsters have been used in biomedical research laboratories. Consequently, their medical problems have been traditionally approached on a group basis, rather than on an individual basis. As a result, very little practical information exists on the medical care of individual hamsters. Furthermore, even less information is available to pet owners on the responsible home care of hamsters and their potential medical problems. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat hamsters is much smaller. It is important that any veterinarian treating a hamster has experience with hamsters. Many veterinarians who treat hamsters will be called "exotics" veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, hamster-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat hamsters.

A common problem for hamsters is infection in cheek pouches from stored food either rotting or a pierced pouch from sharp food.

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VITAL STATISTICS:

Scientific name: Mesocricetus auratus
Potential life span: 2-3 years
Adult body weight: 100-150 grams (Adult females are slightly larger than adult males)
Recommended age at 1st breeding: male: 10-14 weeks; female: 6-10 weeks
Average litter size: 5-10 young
Age at weaning: 3 weeks

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The domestic rabbit, Oryctotagus cuniculus, is a descendant of wild rabbits living in Western Europe and northern Africa in their natural environment. Rabbits are gregarious and reproductively successful, they are completely herbivorous – eating only plants.

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NATURE:

Rabbits are lovable and highly social animals making wonderful companions. They are relatively easy to care for and can be litter box-trained. Their fastidious nature, un-aggressive behaviour and quiet manner make them increasingly popular house pets.
Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn't difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan—more than 10 years—and many specific care requirements.

Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision and remember that rabbits are not toys and they typically not appropriate pets for children. Respect your rabbit's need for quiet time - rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk.

When considering adding a rabbit to your family, spend some time researching their specific requirements to make sure you have the time and knowledge needed to take the best care of your new companion.

Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don't have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.

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HOUSING:

Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors, several considerations should be taken into account when deciding which option is most suitable for you and your rabbit.

Keeping your rabbit outdoors:
Great care must be given to both safety (even in places like inner London there are plenty of predators such as cats and foxes) also rabbits will not tolerate extreme temperatures especially over summer great care must be taken that your rabbit is not overheating.

Your rabbit should have a roomy wire cages with Plexiglas covering about one-half of the floor's surface area. The wire mesh should be just large enough to allow fecal pellets to drop through. A water bottle or ceramic crock and a heavy food dish should be provided. Adequate shade and a hiding spot should be provided as well. Rabbits are typically anxious, wary animals and are easily frightened. This is especially true of newly acquired pet rabbits. The cage should include a concealed area, which the rabbit can use if feeling threatened or unsure, this is necessary to prevent injury that could result from excessive and futile efforts to escape from the cage. Shade must be provided to prevent heat stress or heat stroke. All rabbits, even those housed indoors, are especially sensitive to high environmental temperatures. Adequate shelter must also be provided against wind, rain, snow and ice.

Indoor rabbits caged rabbits:
If kept in a cage, rabbits need sufficient to easily move around. A rabbit's cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits' feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or "rabbit condo" in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide.

When rabbits are kept in a cage, they should still be allowed out for supervised exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.

Indoor free roaming rabbits:
They should still be confined to a suitable enclosure when their activities cannot be adequately supervised. A roomy wire cage with at least one-half of the floor's surface area covered with Plexiglas or washable towels is recommended. The Plexiglas or towels provide relief from constant and continual contact with the wire floor, helping to prevent hutch sores on the feet. A water bottle or ceramic crock, food dish and a litter box should be provided for the rabbit inside the enclosure.

Rabbits should not be allowed total freedom within the home they love to chew and can quickly get into trouble biting into telephone and electrical cords not to talk about your antique and very valuable side-table. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.

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FEEDING:

Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it's very important that they receive a suitable and balanced diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology.

There are many and very different opinions on what makes up the best dirt for your rabbit. Now a days pellets a widely used primarily because it is the easy way to make sure that your rabbit gets all nutritional needs covered. It is however worth considering that these pellets were originally produced to feed up rabbits used for fur or meat and not aimed to promote long life. Many pellets for pet rabbits are still very high in calories and not ideal as the main source of food. Spend time looking at the different options at your pet store / vet and get as much advice as you can before deciding on how to feed your rabbit.

Ideally a basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:

Hay
Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fibre to help prevent health problems such as hairballs, diarrhoea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it's high in protein, calcium, and calories.

Vegetables
In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit's diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.

Fruits and Treats
While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.

Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don't feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything mouldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit's veterinarian.

Pellets
If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit's diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit's diet.

Water
Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit's water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don't get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.

Chews
Chewing is part of a rabbit's natural behaviour, but it doesn't have to be destructive. To keep rabbits active and amused, you may want to put untreated wood blocks or cardboard in their cages. Bowls, balls, and rings made of willow wood are big hits with many rabbits and can be purchased online or in specialty stores. You can also use paper-towel rolls, toilet-paper rolls, and other chewable cardboard materials that can be tossed in the trash once they've served their purpose. Avoid objects with sharp edges, loose parts, or soft rubber that rabbits could chew into pieces and swallow.

Eating of Night Feces
Rabbits engage in relatively uncommon but normal behaviour when they deliberately eat small, soft, moist (often mucus covered), light green fecal pellets directly from the anus. These special night stools are especially rich in protein, vitamins and minerals. Rabbits must obtain these nutrients in this fashion. This behaviour is most often carried out in the early morning hours and is rarely observed by rabbit owners. Sometimes, however, they choose not to eat the night pellets, and you may notice these slightly different droppings in the morning.

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HANDLING:

Rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up so give your rabbit time to get used to being handled and be calm, confident and slow when picking him up. Rabbits are fragile and must be handled carefully, their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines. If a rabbit violently resists physical restraint, it should be immediately released and approached later when it has calmed down. A soft-spoken, relaxed approach with rabbits works well. Covering the eyes and lightly stroking a rabbit will usually result in a hypnotic-like trance that often renders them less prone to panic and injury.

To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his backside, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit's body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.

If you are concerned about being scratched by the claws, place a towel over the rabbit's back and wrap it around the body to restrain all 4 feet before picking up the rabbit. An alternative method of picking up a rabbit involves sliding one hand under its breastbone and grasping both front legs between the fingers of this hand. The other hand is then gently worked under the rear quarters to fully support them as the rabbit is lifted upwards, in the same manner as cats are held.

Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they'll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched.

Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.

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TRAINING:

Like cats, rabbits can be easily trained to use a littterbox in the home. If the rabbit has already selected an area for elimination, the litterbox should be placed in this location. It helps to place some of the rabbit's fecal pellets in the litterbox to encourage its use.

If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it's a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. You could also put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.

Rabbits can be trained to come when called, and some will engage their owners in a daily game of tag! Domestic rabbits are delightful companion animals. They are inquisitive, intelligent, sociable and affectionate

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HEALTH:

Your Rabbit should receive annual check-ups at the vets. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called "exotics" veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.

Spaying & neutering
Most vets will recommend that you sterilized your rabbit at any time after 4 1/2 months of age. The main benefits are related to health and behaviour – aside of cause from avoiding unwanted litters. Male rabbits (especially of the dwarf varieties) have a tendency to become aggressive when reaching sexual maturity. Neutering is the best way to reduce the severity of the problems (biting, urine-spraying) seen in sexually mature male rabbits.
Female rabbits should be spayed to prevent unwanted pregnancy and uterine cancer. Uterine tumours are the most common type in female rabbits and often are associated with serious blood loss. Spaying female rabbits may also help to prevent or reduce territorial aggression among females.

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VITAL STATISTICS:

Normal Body Temperature: 101.5-103 F
Life Span: 5-10 years (rarely up to 15 years)
Breeding Age: Males, 6-10 months; females, 5-9 months
Pregnancy: 29-35 days
Litter Size: 4-10
Weaning Age: 4-6 weeks

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